End-to-end eating: cock head

One of the things the French do so well is to use the whole of any animal that’s killed for food. They’re particularly inventive when it comes to finding a way of serving a part of the body that most of us would never conceive of using.

Take crêtes de coq – cockscombs, in English – for example. Yes, these are the crests on the top of the heads of chickens.

In Britain, I imagine that they’d be used differently, if at all. Perhaps they’d join a host of mechanically recovered parts of the bird and end up reconstituted, breaded and sold in discount supermarkets.

Not so in France – though covering them in breadcrumbs is often the approach taken.

In his book The French Kitchen, Michel Roux Jr recommends simmering them, stuffing them with a chicken liver pâté and truffle, breading them and frying them.

Served with a béarnaise sauce, they are delicious, apparently. “Try this and you’ll be surprised how good they taste,” he says.

I’m open to the idea of trying them, but I think that’ll only ever be as an amuse-bouche in a restaurant. To spend my free time making these, well, I’d have to be off my head.

This entry was published on Wednesday, 15 January 2014 at 07:56. It’s filed under Food and wine and tagged , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink. Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post.
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