Imitation or innovation: complimentary cooking

At first glance, France’s pissaladière looks like a case of ‘if you can’t beat them, join them’. Or having your dough and eating it.

Traditionally, the Provençale dish involves making a bread dough, then smothering it with slow-cooked onions, anchovies and black olives. It is often enjoyed as a meal on its own or cut into small pieces and served as hors d’oeuvres – perhaps with a pastis or rosé wine aperitif.

This month’s Olive magazine arrived this week. It offers a twist on this classic dish. The recipe includes apple and watercress. For me, it looks to be one of the highlights of the new issue.

However, I notice that Liguria, just over the border, in Italy, is also renowned for the dish. It’s hard not to be reminded of pizza when you see pissaladière being served.

Imitation, it seems, may indeed be the sincerest form of flattery.

This entry was published on Thursday, 27 March 2014 at 07:32. It’s filed under Food and wine and tagged , , , . Bookmark the permalink. Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post.

2 thoughts on “Imitation or innovation: complimentary cooking

  1. Slightly off topic but at one of the first dinner parties I went to in France, the hostess served this to guests just after they arrived. I commented how at an American gathering, no one would serve a thin crust of bread slathered in onions to people expect to mingle. My French companions couldn’t imagine why that would be and when I told them that the hosts wouldn’t want any of their guests breaths to smell, the French all laughed and said, But onions are so good!” It was a good crash course in the difference between the two cultures: in France, if it tastes or feels good, it’s okay.

  2. I think the same is also true of almost anything involving garlic!

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