At first glance, France’s pissaladière looks like a case of ‘if you can’t beat them, join them’. Or having your dough and eating it.
Traditionally, the Provençale dish involves making a bread dough, then smothering it with slow-cooked onions, anchovies and black olives. It is often enjoyed as a meal on its own or cut into small pieces and served as hors d’oeuvres – perhaps with a pastis or rosé wine aperitif.
This month’s Olive magazine arrived this week. It offers a twist on this classic dish. The recipe includes apple and watercress. For me, it looks to be one of the highlights of the new issue.
However, I notice that Liguria, just over the border, in Italy, is also renowned for the dish. It’s hard not to be reminded of pizza when you see pissaladière being served.
Imitation, it seems, may indeed be the sincerest form of flattery.